Friday, July 27, 2007
Day 16 - Home!
We had fast food for breakfast. I was already missing the beef jerky I had been having for breakfast for the last two weeks. Another flight took us to Buffalo. It was lunch time and we decided to stop at Ted’s for hamburgers with chili sauce. It was a long long hour drive back home. After being gone for two weeks, it was good to be home.
Day 15 - Salt Lake City
It was the last day in paradise. While waiting for our dried scones to arrive, we sat on the back porch enjoying tea, juice, and the last beer (well, it was bread). It was hard to leave the Ginger Bread house. We came to enjoy the nice surroundings and the quiet part of town.
On the way to Salt Lake City, we drove through Idaho. We could see areas where the wild fires came through.
Today when were about to leave the West, we came to the place where East met West. It was a big surprise for Kim. She didn’t know we were going to Promontory, Utah. This is the place where the Central Pacific and Union Pacific railroads met to finish the Transcontinental Railroad. Kim wasn’t as excited about this place as I thought she should be. They were just starting to steam up the locomotives to take them back to the shed for the evening. I wanted to stay, but Kim was pretty steamed herself.
We arrived in Salt Lake City too late in the day to be converted into Mormons. Kim was disappointed. She wanted me to take another wife. It was more for her than me. She was hoping for one that would do all of the cleaning! When we went into the temple area, young girls came out of the woodwork to help us and answer questions. They were everywhere. We ducked into a building to get away from them. There were all kinds of propaganda playing on the PA system. We looked around a little at the displays. We walked around the big temple. It would have been nice to go in, but I forgot my Mormon card.
After dinner we went to the airport. We were several hours early for the flight. We left Salt Lake City at 1:00 am. It was a long flight to Atlanta. We tried to sleep, but it was difficult.
On the way to Salt Lake City, we drove through Idaho. We could see areas where the wild fires came through.
Today when were about to leave the West, we came to the place where East met West. It was a big surprise for Kim. She didn’t know we were going to Promontory, Utah. This is the place where the Central Pacific and Union Pacific railroads met to finish the Transcontinental Railroad. Kim wasn’t as excited about this place as I thought she should be. They were just starting to steam up the locomotives to take them back to the shed for the evening. I wanted to stay, but Kim was pretty steamed herself.
We arrived in Salt Lake City too late in the day to be converted into Mormons. Kim was disappointed. She wanted me to take another wife. It was more for her than me. She was hoping for one that would do all of the cleaning! When we went into the temple area, young girls came out of the woodwork to help us and answer questions. They were everywhere. We ducked into a building to get away from them. There were all kinds of propaganda playing on the PA system. We looked around a little at the displays. We walked around the big temple. It would have been nice to go in, but I forgot my Mormon card.
After dinner we went to the airport. We were several hours early for the flight. We left Salt Lake City at 1:00 am. It was a long flight to Atlanta. We tried to sleep, but it was difficult.
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Day 14 - Virginia City & Nevada City, MT
After a wonderful breakfast of dry scones, it was time to check out Virginia City. The city is about 5 blocks long and barely two blocks deep. The population is about 140 people in the summer and 90 in the winter. Pay phones out number cell phones. We haven’t had service in days. The town never prospered since the railroad didn’t come through. Gold was found in the early 1860’s and within a couple of years 35,000 prospectors and their families were in the area.
Much of the downtown remains the way it was 150 years ago. Most of the buildings are original. When the gold dried up so did the town. We took a tour of the town on a 1941 fire truck. Our guide talked about the high crime rate and lack of law enforcement. This lead to the formation of a group called the Vigilantes. At one point, the Vigilantes hung five men in one day. The beam is still visible today. Many of the bodies were taken to the cemetery looking over the town. They called it Boot Hill because many of its occupants were buried with their boots on. Of course, if your boots were better than the person burying you a switch would probably be made.
We also heard the story about a wife that refused to have her husband buried at Boot Hill. She didn’t have the $225 in gold to send his body to Utah so she threw him into a tub filled with beer all winter. In the spring, she sent him on his way! Jon now believes this is the way to go, and wants to start stockpiling more beer in the basement.
Clubfoot George, another convicted robber and victim of the Vigilantes, was buried at Boot Hill. Years later, there was some question as to whether his body was really there or not. The body was exhumed and identified by his clubfoot. Which by the way, we were able to see in the town museum.
We went to Nevada City, a ghost town two miles outside of Virginia City. The last person in town left in 1950. The town is remarkably preserved for being over 100 years old. There were so many artifacts crammed into each building, it was hard to see how they fit in the scene. There was even an old junkyard in the back filled with model T’s and a steam tractor. It even had a China Town, however, it wasn’t quite as nice as China Town in San Francisco.
When we got back from supper, there was a big thunder and lightning storm. We tried to take a few pictures, but they didn’t look like the show we saw. We decided to sit back and drink a beer and watch the show.
Much of the downtown remains the way it was 150 years ago. Most of the buildings are original. When the gold dried up so did the town. We took a tour of the town on a 1941 fire truck. Our guide talked about the high crime rate and lack of law enforcement. This lead to the formation of a group called the Vigilantes. At one point, the Vigilantes hung five men in one day. The beam is still visible today. Many of the bodies were taken to the cemetery looking over the town. They called it Boot Hill because many of its occupants were buried with their boots on. Of course, if your boots were better than the person burying you a switch would probably be made.
We also heard the story about a wife that refused to have her husband buried at Boot Hill. She didn’t have the $225 in gold to send his body to Utah so she threw him into a tub filled with beer all winter. In the spring, she sent him on his way! Jon now believes this is the way to go, and wants to start stockpiling more beer in the basement.
Clubfoot George, another convicted robber and victim of the Vigilantes, was buried at Boot Hill. Years later, there was some question as to whether his body was really there or not. The body was exhumed and identified by his clubfoot. Which by the way, we were able to see in the town museum.
We went to Nevada City, a ghost town two miles outside of Virginia City. The last person in town left in 1950. The town is remarkably preserved for being over 100 years old. There were so many artifacts crammed into each building, it was hard to see how they fit in the scene. There was even an old junkyard in the back filled with model T’s and a steam tractor. It even had a China Town, however, it wasn’t quite as nice as China Town in San Francisco.
When we got back from supper, there was a big thunder and lightning storm. We tried to take a few pictures, but they didn’t look like the show we saw. We decided to sit back and drink a beer and watch the show.
Day 13 - Mammoth Springs & Virginia City, MT
Kim managed to live through her near camping experience. Last year’s vacation has made her a stronger woman. If she keeps this up, in a couple of more years we might just be able to sleep a night in a tent! Although saddle sore, we managed a morning hike. Alright, maybe it was only 800 feet, but it seemed much, much longer!
There is a new Sheriff in town!
We were looking forward to visiting the terraces at Mammoth. The terraces are created by dissolved limestone that forms travertine. They can create a ton of new terraces each day. Although most of the terraces were dormant, the ones that were not were beautiful. The newly created terraces are coated in orange bacteria. The ones that just dried up were a beautiful white.
On our way out of the park, we were lucky enough to see more bears. One bear ran across the road in front of us. Another bear was eating berries off a bush along the edge of the road. Jon popped up through the sunroof and took pictures from only 5 feet away!
Our next stop was a B & B in Virginia City, Montana. Currently, the home is called the Gingerbread House. It was the former home of a dental floss tycoon. It is an old Victorian home. It was beautiful and the house was all ours! We weren’t there 10 minutes and we decided to inquire if the house was available for another night. It was, and so we’re changing our plans and will stay here another night. This means we’ll have less time in Salt Lake City, so we’ll just have to become Mormons another time! Jon says, he really doesn’t want another wife. He’s having a hard enough time training the one he already has. (Lots of luck)
The downtown section, the only section, is an old west town recreated, a bit like Jackson. However, it has a more authentic feel. This is another reason we decided to stay another night. We’ll have more time to explore the town.
In the evening we went to the Brewery Follies. A slightly off colored, adult comedy show. The four actors ran the whole production, from selling tickets to beer. They put on a hilarious show which included using members of the audience in some of their routines.
There is a new Sheriff in town!
We were looking forward to visiting the terraces at Mammoth. The terraces are created by dissolved limestone that forms travertine. They can create a ton of new terraces each day. Although most of the terraces were dormant, the ones that were not were beautiful. The newly created terraces are coated in orange bacteria. The ones that just dried up were a beautiful white.
On our way out of the park, we were lucky enough to see more bears. One bear ran across the road in front of us. Another bear was eating berries off a bush along the edge of the road. Jon popped up through the sunroof and took pictures from only 5 feet away!
Our next stop was a B & B in Virginia City, Montana. Currently, the home is called the Gingerbread House. It was the former home of a dental floss tycoon. It is an old Victorian home. It was beautiful and the house was all ours! We weren’t there 10 minutes and we decided to inquire if the house was available for another night. It was, and so we’re changing our plans and will stay here another night. This means we’ll have less time in Salt Lake City, so we’ll just have to become Mormons another time! Jon says, he really doesn’t want another wife. He’s having a hard enough time training the one he already has. (Lots of luck)
The downtown section, the only section, is an old west town recreated, a bit like Jackson. However, it has a more authentic feel. This is another reason we decided to stay another night. We’ll have more time to explore the town.
In the evening we went to the Brewery Follies. A slightly off colored, adult comedy show. The four actors ran the whole production, from selling tickets to beer. They put on a hilarious show which included using members of the audience in some of their routines.
Day 12 - Horse Riding in Yellowstone
Today started off with another hike. Who would have guessed! We took a 2 mile walk out to an island. Many signs were posted warning of bear, and we were a bit nervous to be out in such a deserted walkway so early in the morning. Luckily, deer and humans were the only animals we encountered.
As we drove to the Tower-Roosevelt section of the park, we saw the familiar sight of cars pulled off the road haphazardly and people with their cameras. To our astonishment, a buffalo was strolling down the middle of the road towards our car. He walked within two feet of our vehicle. Jon could have reached out and touched him. He didn’t seem to care that he was surrounded by cars. We thought this was an awesome experience until just down the road a whole herd did the same thing. There was a mother and her calf slowly crossing the road. A few cars up in front of us, an impatient motorcycle pulled out of line to pass everybody and scared the remaining buffalo off the road. Traffic was free to go once again.
We checked into our cabin at Roosevelt, much to her chagrin. Somehow staying in small cabin with no running water brought back memories of some of our hotels we stayed in last year in Tibet.
Our next adventure was a two hour horse ride to a chuck wagon supper. They lined us up against a fence and paired us up with horses. Our new name became the horse’s name. Jon became Zack, and Kim became Gus. Jon’s horse seemed less than enthusiastic about making this ride. He would stomp his feet and snort. He tried to head for the corral several times. Jon knew this was going to be a tough ride!
The horses took us up into the mountains. At times, we were just a couple of feet from the edge of cliffs. We both hoped the horses were just as concerned as we were about going over the edge. It was at this point that one of the guides told us about the valley below us. It was named Poison Valley, because just one “drop” would kill you!
Along the way, various people would point out the animals they saw. Jon spotted a coyote about 15 feet away from us. We also saw deer. Somebody yelled out that they saw a bear. We saw a small black bear running down a hill. We were very excited to have spotted our first bear in the park. Another half mile down the trail, we had another bear experience. This time we were less than 30 feet from a large black bear. He was digging around in the dirt, oblivious to the 20 horses and their riders. We wanted our cameras in the worst way, but we weren’t allowed to take them with us on the ride. The guides seemed to be more nervous than we were, as they kept telling us to keep our horses tight together. They were afraid that the bear might spook the horses.
We had an excellent meal out in the middle of nowhere. The cooks grilled us steaks and made coffee over an open flame. There was a western folk singer. It was a lot of fun. Jon didn’t have time to use the bathroom before it was time to saddle back up. Jon politely reminded Zack he had a full bladder, but Zack was a bad horse. He bounced Jon unmercifully. It was a rather painful ride back for Jon.
As we drove to the Tower-Roosevelt section of the park, we saw the familiar sight of cars pulled off the road haphazardly and people with their cameras. To our astonishment, a buffalo was strolling down the middle of the road towards our car. He walked within two feet of our vehicle. Jon could have reached out and touched him. He didn’t seem to care that he was surrounded by cars. We thought this was an awesome experience until just down the road a whole herd did the same thing. There was a mother and her calf slowly crossing the road. A few cars up in front of us, an impatient motorcycle pulled out of line to pass everybody and scared the remaining buffalo off the road. Traffic was free to go once again.
We checked into our cabin at Roosevelt, much to her chagrin. Somehow staying in small cabin with no running water brought back memories of some of our hotels we stayed in last year in Tibet.
Our next adventure was a two hour horse ride to a chuck wagon supper. They lined us up against a fence and paired us up with horses. Our new name became the horse’s name. Jon became Zack, and Kim became Gus. Jon’s horse seemed less than enthusiastic about making this ride. He would stomp his feet and snort. He tried to head for the corral several times. Jon knew this was going to be a tough ride!
The horses took us up into the mountains. At times, we were just a couple of feet from the edge of cliffs. We both hoped the horses were just as concerned as we were about going over the edge. It was at this point that one of the guides told us about the valley below us. It was named Poison Valley, because just one “drop” would kill you!
Along the way, various people would point out the animals they saw. Jon spotted a coyote about 15 feet away from us. We also saw deer. Somebody yelled out that they saw a bear. We saw a small black bear running down a hill. We were very excited to have spotted our first bear in the park. Another half mile down the trail, we had another bear experience. This time we were less than 30 feet from a large black bear. He was digging around in the dirt, oblivious to the 20 horses and their riders. We wanted our cameras in the worst way, but we weren’t allowed to take them with us on the ride. The guides seemed to be more nervous than we were, as they kept telling us to keep our horses tight together. They were afraid that the bear might spook the horses.
We had an excellent meal out in the middle of nowhere. The cooks grilled us steaks and made coffee over an open flame. There was a western folk singer. It was a lot of fun. Jon didn’t have time to use the bathroom before it was time to saddle back up. Jon politely reminded Zack he had a full bladder, but Zack was a bad horse. He bounced Jon unmercifully. It was a rather painful ride back for Jon.
Day 11 - Grand Teton National Park
We went south to Grand Teton National Park today. We stopped at Jackson Lake Lodge. The view from their 60 foot high windows overlooking the Tetons was amazing. The Shoshone name for the Teton Range is Teewinot, or “Many Peaks.” In French, the Grand Tetons means “Large Teats”. Leave it to the French to twist the name.
Later in the day, we took the ferry across Jenny Lake. We hiked back to Hidden Falls and continued a strenuous walk to Inspiration Point. Kim just needed a little bit more inspiration to make it to the top. I had to promise her a nice dinner in Jackson Hole that night.
It was rumored that Jackson had four brew pubs. Jon was eagerly awaiting this next stop on our visit. We had read that after being in the wilderness of the parks this place would be a shock to your system. And it was! Jon says this is a Disney-fied version of a Wild West town. The town was full of high priced boutiques and upscale restaurants. One of the few things in town that didn’t seem overdone was in the town park. It had four large arches made from hundreds of elk horns.
Well, the tales of four brew pubs were greatly exaggerated, there was only one, but one was enough to make Jon happy.
Later in the day, we took the ferry across Jenny Lake. We hiked back to Hidden Falls and continued a strenuous walk to Inspiration Point. Kim just needed a little bit more inspiration to make it to the top. I had to promise her a nice dinner in Jackson Hole that night.
It was rumored that Jackson had four brew pubs. Jon was eagerly awaiting this next stop on our visit. We had read that after being in the wilderness of the parks this place would be a shock to your system. And it was! Jon says this is a Disney-fied version of a Wild West town. The town was full of high priced boutiques and upscale restaurants. One of the few things in town that didn’t seem overdone was in the town park. It had four large arches made from hundreds of elk horns.
Well, the tales of four brew pubs were greatly exaggerated, there was only one, but one was enough to make Jon happy.
Day 10 - Yellowstone's Hayden Valley
We got up early to take a drive through the Hayden Valley, one of the best places in the park to see wildlife. However, some interesting thermal features caught our attention. We took an hour to walk the trails. We were afraid that after this delay, we would miss our chance at seeing any wildlife. We were wrong! As usual, there was a huge group of cars parked alongside the road. Across the river, there were three female wolves and five pups. By the time we got there, all that we could see was the head of one of the females bedded down under a tree. We took our pictures and were about to leave, when all of a sudden, a buffalo appeared from the other side of the road. It started walking towards the crowd of people. People scattered leaving behind their cameras and food. He walked through the crowd as if we were invisible. He walked to the riverbank and it appeared that he was going for a drink. Next thing you know, he was going across the river. He made loud snorting sounds as he swam across. On the other side he made several loud calls (Jon wishes he could add that call to his animal sound repertoire). The buffalo scared the wolves and they scattered. We were able to get some pictures of the wolves.
Five miles down the road Jon spotted a coyote coming out of the woods. He darted across the road. Jon didn’t have time to respond. By the time we stopped the coyote was already wiggling under Jon’s front tire. (Just kidding) The coyote trotted along the side of the road and we got quite a few good shots.
It took some convincing to get Kim to take another 5.5 mile hike today. We had already seen Grand Prismatic, the most beautiful spring in the park, but this trail took you to a spot where you could look down upon the entire spring. We continued to Fairy Falls, a 171 foot waterfall in the middle of the woods. Until this point, all of the geysers were surrounded by boardwalks. Imperial Geyser at the end of the trail was different. You could walk right up to it and even step on some of the rocks bordering the geyser. We were the only people up there at the time and it was very cool! It turned out to be worth the three hour hike after all.
Five miles down the road Jon spotted a coyote coming out of the woods. He darted across the road. Jon didn’t have time to respond. By the time we stopped the coyote was already wiggling under Jon’s front tire. (Just kidding) The coyote trotted along the side of the road and we got quite a few good shots.
It took some convincing to get Kim to take another 5.5 mile hike today. We had already seen Grand Prismatic, the most beautiful spring in the park, but this trail took you to a spot where you could look down upon the entire spring. We continued to Fairy Falls, a 171 foot waterfall in the middle of the woods. Until this point, all of the geysers were surrounded by boardwalks. Imperial Geyser at the end of the trail was different. You could walk right up to it and even step on some of the rocks bordering the geyser. We were the only people up there at the time and it was very cool! It turned out to be worth the three hour hike after all.
Day 9 - Old Faithful
Today we hit all of the popular tourist attractions in the southern half of the park. The crowds weren’t as bad as we had heard. We saw geysers, mud pots, hot springs, and fumaroles (dried mud pot). Although we’ve seen many TV specials on Yellowstone, nothing compares to actually seeing, hearing, smelling, and feeling the heat of this incredible park!
Again, we saw many elk, buffalo, and chipmunks. Jon constantly tries to get the chipmunks to come up to his fingers. Most of them have enough sense not to come near him. He makes different weird sounds depending upon which species he’s trying to call in. You can always tell when an animal has been sighted, because there is a traffic jam, as there are many cars parked on both sides of the road. Park Rangers are often at these scenes making sure that the humans are safe by keeping them from getting to close to the animals. On one occasion, there was an elk along the side of the road. Jon decided he could get a better picture by getting closer. There were about a dozen other people with Jon. The elk suddenly swung its head around and looked like he was going to get up. Jon got a little nervous and later told he probably would have felt guilty trampling over those kids to have escaped the elk should he have charged.
Again, we saw many elk, buffalo, and chipmunks. Jon constantly tries to get the chipmunks to come up to his fingers. Most of them have enough sense not to come near him. He makes different weird sounds depending upon which species he’s trying to call in. You can always tell when an animal has been sighted, because there is a traffic jam, as there are many cars parked on both sides of the road. Park Rangers are often at these scenes making sure that the humans are safe by keeping them from getting to close to the animals. On one occasion, there was an elk along the side of the road. Jon decided he could get a better picture by getting closer. There were about a dozen other people with Jon. The elk suddenly swung its head around and looked like he was going to get up. Jon got a little nervous and later told he probably would have felt guilty trampling over those kids to have escaped the elk should he have charged.
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